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SS25 Delhi's Dreaming by Felix Cooper and Ola Ebiti

Upon reflecting upon our own collections, there has been a real personal reflection on what it means to be Indian today. However, I can't help but think sometimes we lean into the romance too much. That side definitely exists, there's amazing palaces with intricate stone work that we reference in our embroideries. There are interesting characters in our history, from Maharajas to cricket captains. While this larger than life aspect is fundamentally a part of our brand DNA, this season i wanted to ficus on the idea of what people wear during their devotional practices. Religious pilgrimages to the mountains often feature travelers in ceremonial garb, floral garlands and athletic sneakers and workwear trousers, creating an interesting aesthetic. The other important devotional aspect is the artisanal pursuit of excellence. The uniform of makers is often made from hand spun cotton and linen, designed to wear in gracefully. Both these practices are inherently anti capitalist. The pursuit is almost romantic rather than financial.  However, there is also a significant countering force here: an underlying sense of discomfort. Curriculums have become more religious, mass media needs to align with the government's view. The freedom of speech constraints are significant. It's a version of India that is more reflective of our day to day than the opulent version we show on Instagram. Weirdly, though, this isn't a pessimistic rant. I'm very high on the Indian creative economy. There's a sense of self-belief and ability to take initiative that is rare. There's no infrastructure to show your work, a very limited market, yet the sense of optimism is driven by a combination of blind faith and a determination to put India on the global cultural map. For this season I wanted to capture this spirit through time consuming handwoven khadi textiles. It's also a fabric tied closely to Gandhi's freedom movement, and is the cornerstone of a new Indian cultural awakening.